After the exposed surf beaches farther north, arriving in Saint-Jean-de-Luz feels remarkably different.
The town curves around a sheltered bay protected by sea walls, creating much calmer water than at Biarritz. A broad sandy beach occupies the centre of the bay, backed by traditional houses and a promenade. Behind it, narrow streets lead into a lively historic centre filled with shops, bakeries and restaurants.
Saint-Jean-de-Luz also has an important place in French history. In 1660, Louis XIV married Maria Theresa of Spain in the town’s Church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, helping seal the peace between France and Spain.
The fishing harbour remains one of the prettiest parts of town, particularly where colourful boats sit beneath traditional Basque houses.
For one of the best views, walk along the waterfront towards Sainte-Barbe, from where the entire bay opens below.